Parle Moi de Parfum

Parle Moi de Parfum — let's talk about perfume. The offer came from none other than the famous perfumer Michel Almairac (Gucci Pour Homme, Gucci Rush, Bottega Veneta, Chloe Eau de Parfum and so much more!), whom his son Benjamin persuaded to work not for the client on the brief, but for himself. For himself — that means for his own brand. To realize all the ideas that were put on the back burner or rejected by clients. It would seem that this is freedom, but life shows that the client is not always a hardened conservative, cutting off brilliant ideas at the root. A brief is a technical task that helps the perfumer stay within the framework of human ideas about perfume. Without restrictions and without the intervention of a producer/editor, the perfumer's imagination often goes so far that you and I — ordinary people — have no need to go. Therefore, with designer brands it is always a question of whether the perfumer was able to maintain a balance between the creative and the rational.

Parle Moi de Parfum
The most harmonious composition in this sense is Parle Moi de Parfum Milky Musk/39. It surprisingly combines the strange and the traditional: the aroma of hot creamy fudge and frosty winter air, a candy beloved by children, and pine bark, familiar in classic men's fragrances. I can easily imagine Milky Musk on a teenage girl in a pink sweatshirt, and on an office worker in a fashionable cobalt-colored suit.
I first encountered Milky Musk among samples from Symrise, illustrating one of the important perfume trends, and I liked it so much that I ran to order samples of the other fragrances.

Parle Moi de Parfum Milky Musk
Musk, sandalwood

My second favorite is Cedar Woodpecker/10. Thick, black ganache, cooked over a fire from fragrant plum chips, plus chewed greenery and roses in turpentine. I'm trying hard to remember where I've tried this before and I can't. It seems that a drop of Cedar Woodpecker is in every second fragrance of the late 90s and in the works of Geza Schön, but Almerac's perfume is brighter, more diffuse and has a face. Or rather, all these hundreds of vaguely familiar faces.

Parle Moi de Parfum Cedar Woodpecker
Iris, cedar

In Chypre Mojo/45 Parle Moi de Parfum, I clung to the name alone. Chypre! And again an old familiar beautiful fresh chypre from the early 2000s. Chypre Mojo smells like Voleur de Roses L’Artisan Parfumeur and Libertine Vivienne Westwood were poured into one bottle in a thin stream: pink rose, peony, patchouli and dry apple cider.

Parle Moi de Parfum Chypre Mojo/45
Bergamot, cloves, mango, patchouli

Parle Moi de Parfum Woody Perfecto/107 fully lives up to its name. Ideal woody with prickly pine needles, rich black soil, vetiver and sweet smoked smoke. Brave brutal handsome men should line up for such a scent.

Parle Moi de Parfum Woody Perfecto
Coffee, vetiver, leather

Une Tonne de Roses/8 is one ton of roses, one ton of musk and three tons of patchouli. In other words, a slightly more autumnal, thoughtful and dramatic version of the mega-popular Chloe Eau de Parfum.

Parle Moi de Parfum Une Tonne de Roses
Patchouli, rose

Orris Tattoo/29 Parle Moi de Parfum is iris homeopathy. Zero diffusion, zero desire to smell further than 5 mm from the skin. Introverted, subtle, ringing iris, root vegetables and burdock washed with dew.

Parle Moi de Parfum Orris Tattoo
Iris

Guimave de Noel/31 I spurted it on my hand and then sat all in creamy toffees, vanilla and sugar. Guimave de Noel differs from mass-produced sugars by a slight sourness of candied orange somewhere in the depths. But it is not fundamentally different. Such fragrances are popular in Paris - the entire metro smells of toffees and burnt sugar, but here they quickly went out of fashion.

Parle Moi de Parfum Guimave de Noel
Orange blossom, sugar, vanilla

Tomboy Neroli Parle Moi de Parfum/65. A whole galvanized bucket of green apples washed with icy well water, some pine needles and some garden weeds like quinoa and rape. A very clear perfume profile from the men's luxury of the late 90s. This is not a niche, with all due respect to the experience and skill of the author, but in its segment at the appropriate price it would be a very popular fragrance.

Parle Moi de Parfum Tomboy Neroli
Neroli, orange blossom, amber

With Parle Moi de Parfum Totally White/126 the same feeling - the aroma of the mass perfume profile accidentally ended up on the shelf of a niche brand. But for its segment - impeccable. Freshness, lightness, apple orchard washed by the rain, white lilac, honeysuckle and morning glory.

Parle Moi de Parfum Totally White
Hawthorn, lilac, wisteria

Everything that has vanilla in the name is tried last. Simply because the word "vanilla" is often used to mask sugar. Flavia Vanilla/82 Parle Moi de Parfum is exactly that. For every drop of vanilla, there is a cup of cane sugar with coconut flakes, creamy toffee and literally a pinch of lemon zest.

Parle Moi de Parfum Flavia Vanilla
Sugar, vanilla


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