Korloff Memoire Collection

A few years ago, the Korloff jewelry house, following the example of its older brothers, decided to release perfume. At first, these were light floral waters in simple bottles, then rich oriental compositions in gilded glass, but both were not at all the level of complexity that you would expect from experts in black diamonds. And now, finally, Korloff has a perfume that is interesting to talk about.

The four fragrances of the Memoire Collection are four popular themes in niche perfumery: iris, leather, rose and vetiver, revealed quite predictably, but quite in the spirit of the times.

For example, the golden iris - Iris Doré is addressed not only to romantic maidens with a clouded gaze and a bun on their head. It is perky and lively, at first breathing coolness and moisture, and then warms up, wrapped in a powdery veil. But like any iris, the Korloff golden iris requires the same concentration as living flowers. Stop, freeze above them, filter out the background noise and inhale only their aroma. You will catch the mouth-watering spirit of fresh lemon cheesecake - this is exactly what double or, as experts call them, "bearded" yellow irises smell like in the morning. Darker red irises fill the garden with the drunken spirit of muscat grapes, and the most modest gray-lilac irises subtly smell of ripe peaches and warm dry earth.

Iris Doré Korloff

Bergamot, grapefruit, lavender, juniper, pink pepper, iris, vanilla, ambrox, musk, sandalwood, vetiver.

Cuir Mythique reminded me of several leather fragrances at once, which are like red lipsticks - for a true connoisseur, all are different. Here, the hard prickly pine needles, road dust and horse sweat are opposed by a subtle iris-creamy aroma of beige suede. It resists, and ultimately wins, filling and covering everything that should be covered. With Cuir Magnifique, you feel protected, but not by steel armor, but by the protection of light forces.

Cuir Mythique Korloff

Pine needles, juniper, mandarin, galbanum, iris, ginger, leather

Rose Oud Korloff is like a roll of thick, rustling scarlet silk, woven with a fancy gold pattern. Before you know it, a sweet-voiced merchant will spread out five meters of precious sparkling fabric in front of you, will demonstratively crumple it in his hands, poke it right into your nose and click his tongue.

I love such bright and truly oriental roses surrounded by smoky wood and spices. Here, without the traditional oud and baklava, which is especially valuable.

Rose Oud Korloff

Citrus, myrtle, rose, oud, saffron, pink berries, cashmere wood, castoreum, styrax, guaiac wood.

Let's be honest, a scent with such an evil, caustic, thickened to impenetrable darkness vetiver and animal musk is not for weaklings. Écorce D’Argent runs like a werewolf into a dense forest, tearing off its clothes on the go, sinking barefoot into the squelching moss and howling loudly at the full moon.

At some point, Écorce D’Argent reminded me of the great and terrible Djedi Guerlain, and this is a very unexpected comparison for a niche brand.

Écorce D’Argent Korloff

Bergamot, pink pepper, cypress, vetiver, musk, sandalwood.

The new bottles for Korloff's Memoire Collection are as pleasant as the fragrances. At first glance, the weighty faceted bottles look like screw-on metal flasks hiding a thin glass refill. But no, the bottles are monolithic, made of thick glass, tightly painted black.

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