Rose

Let's talk about the rose? The rose is the most important flower in perfumery. The most ancient raw material. The rose is a symbol. Of a clan, a party, a dynasty, an order, love, war. You can't list them all. Probably no one knows how many varieties of roses a person has bred. White, double, long, tea, small bush, burgundy, apricot. What does a rose smell like? Which one? Which one?

The rose is woven into the compositions of almost all existing and existing perfumes. A unique component that equally well copes with the role of a soloist and the fifth swan in the corps de ballet. Trying all the fragrances with roses and describing them is an impossible task. But this is not a reason to remain silent, not to write about the rose. My note does not pretend to be complete and deep. This is a personal opinion.

So. For myself, I divide perfume roses into several groups:

Confectionery. Candied rose, liqueur, rose loukoum (slightly soapy, starchy, bitter with a slight hint of withered greenery), apricot rose jam, rose-scented tobacco, pink marshmallow. Is it like that on its own or is it a result of its proximity? It doesn't matter if the confectionery rose is the solo component. And it usually is. It can be based on mosses, goes well with benzoin, tonka beans. In some cases, the base contrasts, in others - complements. Confectionery rose is usually accompanied by restrained animalics - barely noticeable musk or amber drowned in a balsamic base.

La Rose Rochas

Nahema Guerlain

Tocade Rochas

2001 Rose Lancome

Habanita Molinard

N’Aimez Que Moi Caron

Zita Paula Dorf

Lancome Tresor

Joy Jean Patou

Hermèssence Rose Ikebana

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Rose Muskissimme

Rose oil. It is often bordered by tea and white roses. The note is unpleasant for many people. Piercing, dominant, difficult to wear, not very comfortable. Sometimes it is deliberately emphasized in the composition. They dare to present a rose as oil in oriental compositions. In real oriental ones. Its usual neighbors are: incense, oud, amber, musk, civet. More often, this is not a dance or a round dance of notes, but a saber duel. In exceptional cases, the note of rose oil rages almost completely alone.

Homage Amouage

Serge Lutens Sa Majeste la Rose

Gold man Amouage

Rose Absolue Annick Goutal

Paris Yves Saint Laurent

Rose Essentielle Bulgari

Parfum Sacre Caron

Incense rosé Tauer Perfumes

Enjoy Jean Patou

Les Parfums de Rosine Rosa flamenca

Annick Goutal Ce Soir ou Jamais

Diptyque L’Ombre Dans L’eau

L’Artisan Parfumeur Drôle de Rose

Penhaligon Elisabethan Rose

Caron Rose

Powdery. Or cosmetic. As far as possible from the scent of a living flower. Abstract. Can smell like powder, lipstick, bath oil or foam, hairspray. Rarely stands on its own. Usually goes with rose oil (an act of humanism) or spring rose (as a sign that the perfumer's muse has left).

Lipstick Rose Frédéric Malle

Very Irresistible Givenchy

Rose Poivree The Different Company

Ombre Rose Jean-Charles Brosseau

Montaigne Caron

So Pretty Cartier

Spring rose. The most subjective and difficult to describe in my personal classification. Rose on a cool breath. Fleeting and ephemeral. Raised eyebrow. Never a soloist. Touching. Harmoniously lives with aldehydes, cloves, peach, bergamot (and other oily citrus fruits), gracefully lies on top of ylang and orris.

Nº5 Chanel

Arpège Lanvin

Mitsouko Guerlain

Sous le vent Guerlain

Selenion Pola

Geranium rose. It used to be a lifesaver for men's perfumes, where it is not respectable to wave a lush bouquet. Now this skinny, discolored and harsh rose has migrated to women's perfumes and dug in a niche. I do not see any progress, development or anything interesting in it.

Rose Paul Smith

Rose Alexandrie Armani

Cruel Intentions By Kilian

Guerlain Rose Barbare

Perles de Lalique

Fluorescent rose. Luca Turin's term. Very true. Radioactive, slightly plastic, with greenery, rotten honey, powder and mice. It is almost exclusively found next to moss, galbanum and strong musk. Glows in the dark.

Knowing Estée Lauder

Aromatics Elixir Clinique

Jil Sander women III

Coriandre Jean Couturier

Balmain de Balmain

La Perla

Parure Guerlain

Silences Jacomo

Nº19 Chanel

Soir de Lune Sisley

Agent Provocateur

Diptyque Opôné

Metallic rose. Faithful companion of the great abstract aldehydes of the mid-to-late last century. Didn't catch on. Almost never seen now.

Y Yves Saint Laurent

Ivoire Balmain

Calandre Paco Rabanne

Rive Gauche Yves Saint Laurent

Scarlet rose. A wild, timid creature, difficult to reproduce. Differs from other types of roses by the presence of temperature characteristics. Can be wet, cold or hot. Combines well with greenery and skin. Can be a soloist.

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Rosa Magnifica

Serge Lutens Rose de Nuit

Bandit Piguet

Vent Vert Balmain

Keiko Mecheri Mogador

A pink rose. Characterless, watery with a hint of raspberry or a damaged peony. Flexible, easily inserted into the most unexpected compositions. As a soloist, she looks pathetic. It is better for her to remain an auxiliary component.

Mille et Une Roses Lancôme

Kelly Calèche Hermès

Voleur de Roses L’Artisan Parfumeur

Stella Stella Mc Cartney

Frédéric Malle Une Rose

Comme des Garçons Rose

Parfums de Nicolaï Rose Pivoine

Rose garden, greenhouse, hothouse. The scent of many roses at once in the place where they grow. A separate flower cannot be caught.

Red Roses jo Malone

Rosarium Shiseido

Penhaligon Victorian Posy

There are still many roses that are difficult to classify. But for me, they usually live somewhere at the junction of the main types. The list is not final, it will be supplemented and clarified.

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