Rose part 2

We had our first conversation about roses earlier, but that was almost ten years ago. Much has changed since then, which means we need to re-check our feelings.

The most important change, I think, is that there is a real rose boom in perfumery right now! For the first time in a long time, the rose has found itself in the spotlight. There are many different roses being produced. They are served solo, surrounded by greenery, fresh flowers or salt water, mixed with honey, spices or fruits, dried and smoked, wrapped in leather and rolled in mud. No respect for Her Majesty!

The new fashion for roses is due to the interpenetration of the cultures of Europe and the Middle East, where roses have always been loved and understood, so oriental roses are at the forefront.

The Taif rose, popular in the Arab world, is silky and delicate with sweet strawberry tones and is beautiful in La Douceur de Siam Parfums Dusita and in the rare and almost unavailable attar Ayoon Al Maha Amouage. In the even more expensive attar Rose Taif Amouage, the Taif rose is seething with joy, and in the extract Rose de Taif Perris Monte Carlo it dozes in lazy languor.

Another oriental beauty is the majestic damask rose with the obligatory for its thick and hot aroma shades of geranium, cloves, and pepper is damn good in Rose Turkia Molinard, in the attar Rose (TRO) Amouage and Rose Opulente Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier.

Another theme that came to us from the East is a spicy thick rose with spices, sandalwood and oud, dense and heavy, like a patterned woolen carpet. The most velvety and hot among them is Amouage Lyric, not far behind are Tiziano Terenzi Porpora, Dali Haute Parfumerie Fabulous Collection Korynthia, Cinabre Maria Kandida Gentile and rough roses with saffron Halfeti Penhaligon`s and Tattoo Mansfield. Countless oud compositions can be found simply by the name Rose Oud (By Kilian, Korloff, Yves Rocher, Alexandre J., Micallef and even Jo Malone). Now they are gradually going out of fashion along with oud.

Compositions with rose and currant, fresh vegetables and salad herbs, where the rose is shaded by the greenery of the leaf, the sweet and sour aroma of fresh berries and the tartness of currant jam cooked right at the dacha, are experiencing an unprecedented heyday. Currant and greenery next to the rose are now not even in every second composition, but in every first one! They all develop the theme once raised in In Love Again YSL. I like the rose with crème de cassis Rose Royale Nicolai, the light watercolors of Blouse Yves Saint Laurent and Mes fleurs de roses Jean-Michel Duriez. As a variant of green-pink watercolor - rose with cucumber OR ± Damask UER MI and rose with green tea Rosa Greta Eau Eau d`Italie. We are waiting for the development of the rose story with ginger, root vegetables and melons.

An eternal story that perfumers never lose sight of - rose + patchouli or rose with moss and wood. A sharp, contrasting and very effective combination that has adorned many chypre fragrances. Remember Knowing Estee Lauder, Agent Provocateur, Coriandre, La Perla and add to them newcomers Desert Rose Urban Scents, Une Tonne de Roses/8 Parle Moi de Parfum, "Black Swan" Brocard and delicate rose hips with rotten wood Myrrhe Églantine Hermes

A huge family that has grown in recent years - gourmand roses: pink marmalade with incense Rose Infernale Terry de Gunzburg, pink mulled wine Rouge Nocturne Terry de Gunzburg, rose with wine must Baraonda Nasomatto, rose with pinot noir La Fille de Berlin Serge Lutens, rose with milk Mohur Extrait Neela Vermeire Creations, rose with candied violets Rose Privee L`Artisan Parfumeur and Hippie Rose James Heeley and the darkness darkness of roses with toffee, honey and sugar. I will name only Hatria Angela Ciampagna.

But powdered vintage roses are a disappearing species. But beautiful. I love Rose Etoile Hollande Mona di Orio and Evening Rose Aerin in Les Nombres d`Or.

There are no new white roses either, but don't miss those that are still being produced: the chiseled marble rose Rose Caron is good, the flying petal of White Rose Floris is charming, and the bitchy Creed Fleurs de The Rose Bulgare Private Collection is one of the greatest perfume roses.

Roses are timeless, works of great perfumers:

The rarest rose by Edmond Roudnitska - pink musk and pink Turkish delight La Rose Rochas.

A disheveled rose with greenery and tobacco 2000 Et Une Rose by Lancome, about which its author Christine Nagel said that it was a project with no budget limit, and she lit it up. In the end, the composition turned out to be so expensive that they had to limit the edition.

Paris Yves Saint Laurent by Sofia Groysman is a perfume that brought the solo rose back to perfumery.

One perfect rose created by Guy Robert - One Perfect Rose La Prairie.

Jean Paul Guerlain's rose ahead of its time - Nahema Guerlain.

Two of the best roses of the greatest rose master Ernest Daltroff - N'Aimez Que Moi Caron

and Or et Noir Caron

The first perfume by Francois Coty - La rose Jaqueminot.

The intoxicating centifolia rose, which French perfumers are so proud of, in Une Rose Frederic Malle by Edouard Flechier.

The ingenious and simple rose of Matilda Laurent - Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Rosa Magnifica - a bunch of wet burgundy roses.

That's all I have for now. Perfumers, please don't stop.

OUR SHOP