Maison Violet

It took about a year to defeat the postal services and get samples of the revived old brand Maison Violet, and now, finally, I can tell you about it.

The brand name is not very familiar even to perfume historians, because the brand has not always been involved in perfumes. The official registration date of Maison Violet is 1827. That was when the store and production of scented soap by Monsieur Violet opened. Until the end of the 19th century, first he himself, then his successors developed the business in a very competitive environment. They did well - by the beginning of the Belle Epoque, Maison Violet had several stores in the center of Paris and serious plans to capture the American market. After the First World War, perfumes appeared in the brand's assortment in addition to cosmetics. This was a time of rapid growth in the beauty industry, an era of innovative fragrances, ornate bottles, luxurious cases, colorful unexpected advertisements. Old brands flourished, new ones grew like mushrooms. But not everyone survived World War II. Maison Violet did not survive and finally died out in 1947.

The house was forgotten until 2016, when three enthusiasts stumbled upon its archives: collector and lover of vintage perfumes Anthony Toutlemonde, inventor Paul Richardot and expert in patent law Victorian Sirot. They decided to give the old name a new life, and I think they succeeded. Now the Maison Violet collection has four fragrances. Two of them are vintage, two sound absolutely modern.

Purpre d’Automne Violet Parfums is an etude in purple tones, where the thin and ringing aroma of iris, blueberry and ink dissolves in the thick and dense smell of loose powder, cream, lipstick and prune tobacco. As if a thin student in glasses had mistakenly stepped into the dressing room of a drag queen and froze on the threshold with her mouth open. Purpre d’Automne has spirit and body, irony and passion, vintage and hipster relaxation. I love it for that!

Named after the famous perfume of the house — Pourpre d’Automne, released in 1923, and two years later received one of the awards of the World Exhibition.

Purpre d’Automne Violet Parfums 2018

Nathalie Lorson

Violet leaves, peach, plum, rose, iris, violet, moss, benzoin, musk.

Sketch Violet Parfums feels like a damp and dark tropical forest, full of bizarre poisonous flowers, stupefying everyone who was careless enough to stop near them. I vividly imagine how in the roaring 20s such perfumes with a powerful amber-patchouli mixture, spices, indoles and other feline animalics were poured straight into slicked partings, expensive furs or the necklines of transparent beaded dresses.

On my skin, Sketch warms up a little longer than I would like, but when it warms up, it becomes an incredibly defiantly impudent beauty.

Created based on the fragrances Ambre Royal from 1900 and Sketch from 1924.

Sketch Violet Parfums 2018

Nathalie Lorson

Bergamot, nutmeg, pink pepper, rose, tuberose, patchouli, vanilla, tonka beans

Un Air d’Apogee Violet Parfums is an absolutely modern story in terms of transparency (maximum) and radius of destruction (minimum). No, of course, it flies in a beautiful long trail, but does not drop anyone in its path. Un Air d’Apogee is crystal clear and cool October air, the nose-tickling smell of pickled ginger, phytoncides of a coniferous forest, the resinous spirit of pine resin and bark. A calm, smooth, balanced fragrance for wearing with gray suits in a work environment.

Named after one of the last successful fragrances of the house - Apogee, created in 1932.

Un Air d’Apogee Violet Parfums 2018

Nathalie Lorson

Anise, sage, honey mimosa, cedar, tobacco, leather, labdanum, ambrox.

Tanagra Violet Parfums is a new product of 2019 and another iris in the collection, but this is a delicate and light, lemon-yellow with purple veins iris flower. It smells completely alone in transparent silence surrounded by light greenery, and in its sweetish aftertaste it has weightless powder, skim soy milk, some kind of amber-woody substance for durability, vegan toffees and cheesecake. The iris is not unique, but is notable for its bright lemon shade.

The fragrance is named after the perfume released in 1922 in a bottle in the shape of a female figurine from the ancient Greek city of Tanagra. By the way, 20% of Tanagra sales are donated to the Women's Solidarity Fund.

Tanagra Violet Parfums 2019

Mandarin, pear, freesia, peony, iris, jasmine, cedar, vetiver, musk

Maison Violet fragrances can be found in several stores in Paris and elsewhere around the world (even in Senegal!), but not here yet. You can try your luck and order by mail. 75 ml bottles cost 145 euros, express delivery is 12. Quite humane. There are 8 ml travel bottles for 15 euros each and a set of samples for 5 (and a package with tracking will cost 10 euros). Don't order without tracking, take my word for it - they will lose it.

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