The concept of the young niche brand Maison Rebatchi seems very familiar. Mohamed Rebatchi gave carte blanche to top perfumers, and they built compositions around important perfume raw materials. The result is another perfume library from celebrities. Its advantage is that the bottle costs 75 euros for 50 ml. versus 165 euros for the most famous perfume librarian. I have not tried all the brand's fragrances, but the very first ones are available in samples.
Feu Patchouli by Bertrand Duchaufour is a drop of honey or maple syrup that has fallen on dry gray earth, strewn with leaves and penetrated with roots, thin threads of mycelium, ant and beetle passages. This drop will become a whole feast for a brave ant or will dissolve, sink somewhere in the endless organic matter. Perhaps the most attractive fragrance of the brand to me and a fascinating picture of the forest microworld, visible if you literally bury your nose in it.
Feu patchouli, Maison Rebatchi, 2018
Bertrand Duchaufour
Orange, citron, bergamot, pink and black pepper, cloves, cinnamon, black currant, aldehydes, cloves, cinnamon, davana, patchouli, myrrh, incense, labdanum, musk, caramel, moss.
With Rose Rebatchi by Randa Hammami I had a palpable sense of déjà vu. All three of the most popular companions of the modern rose were here: saffron, crème de cassis and grapefruit with its sulphurous tones. To the author’s credit, she tamed them and the result was not a rose, but a black, oily, shiny tourmaline with reflections of pinot noir in the facets.
Rose Rebatchi, Maison Rebatchi, 2018
Randa Hammami
Pink pepper, saffron, raspberry, peach, apple, rose, iris, white musk, sandalwood, amber, leather.
Cuir Tassili by Alienor Massenet is a raw, earthy scent of leather mixed with pepper and herbs. This is how autumn smells somewhere outside the city, where soggy clay slides underfoot and a pound of it sticks to each sole. The stubble scrapes against the boot, the wind storms the windbreaker, and the soul is warmed by the thought that there is a thermos of fragrant tea in the backpack. As a lover of autumn landscapes painted in sepia, I like Cuir Tassili. But sometimes it seems that a little life would not hurt it.
Cuir Tassili, Maison Rebatchi, 2019
Aliénor Massenet
Black pepper, elemi, lemon, sage, iris, tea leaf, myrrh, leather, patchouli.
Joyeux osmanthe by Maurice Roucel is more reminiscent of the works of amateur authors than the prim powdery and musky perfumes of the senior perfumer Symrise. Joyeux osmanthe is a dirty oily orange blossom and osmanthus with its dried apricots gnawed by mice. A bubbling and smoking witch's potion from which it seems something will jump out now and run into a dark corner on thin hairy legs.
Joyeux osmanthe, Maison Rebatchi, 2018
Maurice Roucel
Nectarine, apricot, cinnamon, greenery, osmanthus, tuberose, orange blossom, honeysuckle, jasmine, rose, iris, musk, cashmeran, cedar, amber.
Bois d’enfants by Karin Chevalier seems to have suffocated a little in a test tube after almost a year of waiting for a review and instead of fresh greenery and watery flowers that I remember in Milan, it began to give out sweet and spicy angostura and absinthe. Therefore, there will be no conclusions. I will wait for an opportunity to refresh my impressions.
Bois d'enfants, Maison Rebatchi, 2018 Karine Chevallier Bergamot, pink pepper, rose, freesia, iris, incense, cedar, pine, sandalwood, raspberry, vanilla, musk.
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