Armani Prive Les Eaux

My acquaintance with the Les Eaux Armani Prive collection happened as quickly as a raid by the Pechenegs and Polovtsians. One January evening, I read the news about the release of four new Armani Prive fragrances, two of which had the magic words "jasmine" and "rose" in the title, and the next morning I came across them in the brand's corner. "In the morning in the newspaper, in the evening in a couplet." I immediately wrote down my first impressions in Telegram, but after several months of joyful possession, I have something to add.

The greatest love — Jasmin Kusamono — a May garden washed by a thunderstorm with everything in bloom. Mock orange, sakura, lilac, fruit trees for this botanical (pistils/stamens) love of theirs dressed up in white and pink. The still cool wind raised whirlwinds and tornadoes of confetti from fallen petals, and this made it somehow especially festive. Jasmin Kusamono is the most fragrant and most accurate answer to the question of where to look for the aroma of a blooming spring garden. It simply doesn’t get more accurate.

Armani Prive Jasmin Kusamono, 2020 Dominique Ropion Pink pepper, pear, jasmine, ylang, gardenia, lily of the valley, neroli, white musk, amber, cedar, sandalwood.

The beauty of Rose Milano is a portrait of a lady, only a very young lady with porcelain skin and red curls. Fresh pink dew, cool with bubbles of Franciacorta, blackcurrant marmalade and barefoot on the damp earth on a date in the dark depths of the garden. Kissing! Tenderness and innocence, apparent simplicity, behind which lies the unbending character of a classic chypre. That very “breed” that cannot be replaced by any learned manners and expensive outfits.

Rose Milano easily, naturally and very harmoniously combines two of the most modern “rose” themes - a fresh rose with currant splashing with juice and a passionate duet of rose + patchouli. To the delight of lovers of roses and chypres.

Armani Prive Rose Milano, 2020

Daphne Bugey, Marie Salamagne

Lemon, pear, bergamot, rose, jasmine sambac, lily of the valley, sandalwood, patchouli, oak moss.

For lovers of the perfect vacation picture, Armani Privé has prepared Gardenia Antigua. Turquoise water to the horizon, white sand, skin bronzed by a tan, a pareo and a wreath of predatory tropical flowers. Such a reliable feeling of salt on the lips and sunscreen in the palm of your hand that you want to clench your fists and not let this feeling go anywhere.

I hear in Gardenia Antigua the most elegant “sunny” ylang-tuberose accord, coconut cream, hot embrace of Indian jasmine and gardenia with its forest mushroom tones. I hear and already want to go to some sea other than the White Sea.

Armani Privé Gardenia Antigua, 2020

Dora Baghriche-Arnaud, Harry Fremont

Mandarin, neroli, pink pepper, gardenia, ylang, jasmine, white musk, patchouli, amber.

Thé Yulong should be very popular with us, because it is cool and fresh. Oolong reminded me at once of all the fragrances on the theme of white tea with their roughness and directness, with the astringency of tannins invisible in this transparent infusion, the bitterness of green citrus fruits and ginger and dried jasmine petals traditional for oriental tea cocktails. The result is a frozen or so slowly changing picture that it seems motionless.

I like Thé Yulong, but more as a smell of space than as a smell of a person.

Armani Privé Thé Yulong, 2020

Julie Massé, Veronique Nyberg

Lime, mandarin, jasmine, green tea, black tea, orange blossom, vetiver, wood, iris.

After getting to know the four new Armani Prive products, I discovered that the Les Eaux collection is not new at all, it just somehow fell out of sight. So in the fall of 2019, the Les Eaux collection included a delicate and full of gentle sun cologne Orangerie Venise, which I now have big plans for. The author, Dominique Ropion, collected in it all the shades of citrus fruits from the greenest and bitter to sweet and red, took flowers, branches, leaves and even, it seems, the bark of an orange tree. Plus, he undoubtedly used magic, because the result is an absolutely vintage cologne - the heir to the entire great family of colognes, sounding, at the same time, young and modern.

Orangerie Venise, 2019

Dominique Ropion

Bergamot, buchu, bigarade, neroli, cedar, oak moss, ambroxan.

I definitely missed Pivoine Suzhou in 2015, and now in 2020 it seems too timid. In the few years since Peony was released, the floral aromas have strengthened and become brighter, as if the fruity-musky clouds in which they used to get stuck were sharpened. Pivoine Suzhou remains this cloud of whipped cream with wild raspberries and sakura petals. And no, for those looking for our Russian bitter-honey peonies, this is not the peony.

Armani Privé Pivoine Suzhou (2015)

Cecile Matton, Julie Massé

Mandarin, raspberry, pink pepper, rose, peony, amber, musk, patchouli.

Figuier Eden is not the first attempt in perfumery to combine the incompatible - coconut-creamy fig with greenery and freshness and powdery aroma of iris, a symbol of fertility and a symbol of sublime spiritual suffering. In the Armani Privé version, the spirit won, and the gray strict iris overcame the cheerful sweetness and fresh greenery of the fig. The result is a restrained, even strict aroma with barely perceptible sweetness over rubber and dark greenery. To my great regret, the aroma is elusive and not diffuse at all.

Armani Privé Figuier Eden, 2012

Christine Nagel

Bergamot, mandarin, pink pepper, green fig, iris, amber.

I noted the release of light transparent Rose Alexandrie and Vétiver Babylone in 2008, I approached the testers more than once, but I only really tried the fragrances now with samples in hand. After all, the overall powerful background of the Armani Privé collection and the store background prevent me from getting to know these watercolors. Rose Alexandrie contained the most beautiful perfume champagne — dry, golden, with cheerful bubbles, and to go with the champagne, soft cheese with fragrant orange honey and sweet strawberries. But I didn’t find any roses there.

Armani Privé Rose Alexandrie, 2008

Bergamot, mandarin, neroli, mimosa, rose, benzoin.

Vétiver d’Hiver is the new name of the former Vetiver Babylone. It was and remains a fresh, “vegetable” vetiver with salad greens and spicy Italian herbs, only now it has more mint, ice water and coarse sea salt, as if all these garden tops were covered with wet snow.

Armani Privé Vétiver Babylone, 2008

Alberto Morillas

Bergamot, citron, mandarin, cardamom, coriander, pink pepper, patchouli vetiver.

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