UERMI UD Ikat, EN Lace, OH Denim Extreme, My Tuxedo

The pandemic is no obstacle to perfume curiosity. Just a month of the parcel wandering around postal sorting, and I have samples of all the new launches of the Italian brand UERMI.

The UERMI project is an olfactory wardrobe. But not in the sense that fashionable perfume stylists mean. The authors Aurora Carrara and Palmiro Picquin tried to combine smells with tactile and visual sensations from textures and fabrics, to convey with the help of perfume the touch of silk, the roughness of denim or the creak of vinyl. A difficult task, but UERMI does not stop and tries new combinations.

New for 2021 — UD Ikat. Many designers were inspired by the colorful Indonesian Ikat patterns this season and released perfumes with the same name, but UERMI with their love for fabrics was the perfect choice.

It is logical that oud, vanilla and patchouli were chosen for the composition. All of them come from the same places where the art of dyeing and weaving using the Ikat technology was born. And the composition was created by Symrise perfumer Pierre Constantin Gueros. He took natural oud oil and precious resins and mixed them with the achievements of modern aromachemistry to make the aroma come alive and shine.

UD Ikat confirms its purebred origins from the first second. Powerful oud in all its animalistic beauty warms up and melts on the skin, turning into a sweet strawberry rose surrounded by smoke and resins. The scarlet and pink pattern of the Simraiz captive ambrostar, fragrant with disturbing smoking wood and salty amber, is crossed with a black thread. A thick golden-chocolate border of vanilla and patchouli runs along the bottom of the pattern.

It’s hard for me to wear this, but in Italy they’ve recently loved bright and long-lasting scents, like in the Gulf countries.

UD Ikat UERMI, 2021,

Pierre Constantin Gueros

Elemi, bergamot, red berries, patchouli, vetiver, cypriol, oud Ajmal, sandalwood, cedar.

EN Lace was released in 2020. Once again, Symrise perfumer Aliénor Massenet, a master of weaving delicate lace from the aromas of flowers. EN Lace is also lacy, appetizing and defiantly naked. Windows overlooking the garden, night, nightingales under a jasmine bush, a basket of fruit, young wine with residual fermentation and apres l`amour sheets strewn with petals of dying gardenias. Not a drop of oud or any special animalics. Only hints, and the mood is created. Bravo!

EN Lace UERMI, 2020,

Aliénor Massenet

Mandarin, carnation, jasmine, gardenia, carissa, vetiver, cedar

OH Denim Extreme is a version of the already familiar OH DENIM theme. Also tuberose, shining in all its tuberose power and surrounded by jasmine and hot spices. Somewhere in the core of OH Denim Extreme I feel a slightly cloying sweetness of pink lipstick and currant liqueur, and in the finale, extreme denim gives heat, i.e. chypre in the style of the early 80s. For me, the scent is somewhere between the “correct” Jardins de Bagatelle Guerlain and the hooligan Gio.

OH Denim Extreme UERMI, 2020,

Sylvie Fischer

Bergamot, mandarin, cinnamon, black pepper, absolutes of tuberose and jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang, patchouli, vetiver, olibanum, cedar.

My Tuxedo is one of those I call IQOS smells. It has the overheated dry and so recognizable sour tobacco of electric cigarettes, the ash of saltpeter paper and soft coffee from capsules. This is how any prestigious business center smelled in 2019 before it all started.

My Tuxedo UERMI, 2019

Maurice Roucel

Cardamom, bergamot, jasmine, vetiver, tobacco, musk.

OUR SHOP