Supercritique Les Eaux Primordiales

If you are aiming to try the Supercritique Les Eaux Primordiales collection, here is a cheat sheet from a person who has been working towards these fragrances for many years. And yes, supercritique is not a perfume for supercritics, but a process of creating especially authentic raw materials that most closely convey a living aroma.

Among my favorites is Champaca. Indian jasmine with a banana-yellow sweet core, whose sweetness melts in the poisonous milky juice of some tropical trees. The texture is more like whipped egg whites on a tiny cake. You want to pick them up with the tip of your tongue.

Champaca Les Eaux Primordiales, 2018

Aldehydes, grapefruit, bergamot, jasmine, champaca, cyclamen, plum, labdanum, cedar

In the courtyard of the house in Milan where I lived during the Esxence exhibition, there was a gardenia bush with a single white flower. It greeted me at dusk with a cool, slightly mushroomy aroma, and even after a whole day of smells, it stopped me in my tracks. Gardenia Les Eaux Primordiales is exactly like that: twilight, the shining whiteness of a single flower and a slight sourness of pear marshmallow.

Gardenia Les Eaux Primordiales, 2018

Bergamot, pepper, rose, jasmine, gardenia, raspberry, patchouli, saffron, sandalwood

Magnolia is a frosty and soapy scent of a living flower with its thick, slightly waxy petals in pink and green veins. It has the naive freshness of apple blossom and the rot of a dying lily, but in total it is a photographically accurate portrait of magnolia.

Magnolia Les Eaux Primordiales, 2018

osmanthus, orange blossom, apricot, fig, frangipani flower, ylang-ylang, vanilla

Rose is a rose without a rose. An illusion of a raspberry rose, created by pink pepper, geranium and currant leaf. It has more landscape than botany, fresh greenery and cold stones than stamens and petals.

Rose Les Eaux Primordiales, 2018

Pink pepper, bergamot, rose, black currant, cardamom, myrrh, incense, ambroxan

Neroli Les Eaux Primordiales – a gentle wind in the branches of orange trees, lush night jasmine and white daffodils, sweet mimosa and small pink carnation. There are more petals, pollen and color here than in all the other fragrances in the collection, and if I had to choose one, it would be Neroli. They sound complex and therefore somehow out of date. A fragile boutonniere. A postcard from the past, smelling of Jean Patou perfume.

Neroli Les Eaux Primordiales, 2023,

Aldehydes, mandarin, bergamot, neroli, jasmine, orange blossom, tuberose, petitgrain, white musk, guaiac wood, vanilla

Mimosa, on the contrary, is a modern and realistic picture of a gray city, gray March days, when there is gray snow and melt water ankle-deep, and the only thing that reminds you of spring is the skinny mimosa and freesias in the windows of flower shops. Very ours, very March, very mimosa.

Mimosa Les Eaux Primordiales, 2019

Aldehydes, cyclamen, bergamot, neroli, jasmine, tuberose, orange blossom, mimosa, white musk, ambroxan.

Tubrose Supercritique Les Eaux Primordiales is actually an ice cream gardenia. Nice and light, unlike the trendy vegetable-green tuberoses, it will appeal more to those who fell in love with tuberoses in the early 2000s.

Tuberose Les Eaux Primordiales, 2023

Aldehydes, bigarade, bergamot, almond milk accord, jasmine, tuberose, ylang-ylang, sandalwood, patchouli, white musk, amber.

Crocus Les Eaux Primordiales. The strangest in the Supercritique collection.

It really is a crocus, the petals of which smell tenderly like spring, and from the stigmas (reproductive organ) they make one of the most expensive spices - saffron. This duality is revealed in it immediately. The milky and fresh scent of petals, reminiscent of a pink tulip, suddenly fills with the burning pungency of saffron in the empty spring air, thickens and acquires the velvety texture of soft suede. In the aftertaste, a drop of incense, woody warmth and the greenery of dried aromatic herbs.

Crocus Les Eaux Primordiales, 2023

Ginger, thyme, rosemary, saffron, orange blossom, tolu, benzoin, Atlas cedar, suede, patchouli, leatherette, labdanum

Plumeria Supercritique Les Eaux Primordiales promises to become a bestseller, but immediately forget everything you knew about a living flower. On the blotter - cherry blossom, thick cherry syrup with cherry pits (labdanum), on the skin plus orange jelly, whipped cream and powder to the cherry dessert. An abyss of powder. But in total it is not food, but living perfumes that develop over time.

Plumeria Les Eaux Primordiales, 2023

Almond, red berries, bergamot, heliotrope, iris, tonka bean, vanilla, patchouli

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